Subject: Brown Horse Inn, Winster Author: Cecilia Campbell Date: 4/2/2009 Body: RATING Total 20 Great atmosphere 4 Home cooked fresh food 5 Plenty of flavour 4 Good value for money 3 Service with a smile 4 Telephone: 015394 43443 www.thebrownhorseinn.co.uk Original review: September 8, 2006, for dinner. Driving up Lyth Valley (having photographed damsons in situ), we came upon this pub which we had heard of before – basking in glorious late summer sunlight, and looking most inviting. We had a drink outside, and after checking out the menu, decided to stay for dinner. As Martin was flailing at the wasps attacking his organge juice and lemonade, we moved inside for the meal. The  restaurant has low pub ceilings, flagstone floors which gives it a traditional feel, although the furniture is more contemporary. There are candles on all the tables, and not too much lighting which gives it a nice ambience, and no doubt a cosy atmosphere when a bit fuller (we were early, and the first guests to have dinner). I decided to have a couple of starters, and Martin went for a main course. One of my dishes was a Pan Fried Goats Cheese Crottin in a Hazelnut Crumb with a Beetroot and Herb Salad and Beetroot Dressing. It was nice and fresh, with a good cheese, and my only reservation is the one I always have about English beetroots: why are they never cooked fresh? I'm not sure what is done to them before they are sold, they seem to be pickled somehow, but they lose so much of their flavour, texture and sweetness in the process. Anyway, that's another story. My Classic Ceasar Salad with Tea Smoked Chicken and Maple Glazed Pancetta was really tasty and satisfying. It's so rare that people actually serve it the proper way, with anchovies, so that was an added bonus, as was the wonderfully tasting chicken which had a very subtle smoked flavour. Martin had Pan Fried Breast of Gressingham Duck with Lyth Valley Damson Gin Sauce and Roasted Layered Potatoes. The meat was perfectly cooked, i e slightly pink (a plus to the waiter for asking whether this was OK). The Damson sauce went better with the duck than e g an orange sauce, it was nicely tart and not syrupy. Also, it was nice to see local produce being used in season (apparently the damsons were from the owner's garden, and hand picked by the same). The other thing he really liked was the stack of layered, roasted sweet potatoes and regular potatoes – a good mix, cooked properly. The veg included red cabbage which was just sweet enough. All and all, a real hit with Mr C. The starters are priced at £5-7, mains at £12-17. By Cecilia Campbell   Cancel