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Review of The Highwayman in Burrow by Cecilia Campbell

CeciliaC

39 posts

Joined
10/6/2005

Review of The Highwayman in Burrow by Cecilia Campbell
Posted: 06 Apr 08 7:36 AM Modified By CeciliaC on 4/6/2008 8:07:09 AM)

Most recently visited on April 5, 2008, for lunch
Telephone 01524 273338

For the first time we are reviewing a restaurant outside of Cumbria. Only by a couple of miles though, and for a very good reason. We had long intended to visit the Highwayman because we'd heard so much about their complete commitment to food provenance and promoting local food producers.

And indeed they do, more or less every item on the extensive and interesting menu refers to a particular farm, producer or supplier, two thirds of them in Lancashire, one third in Cumbria. The Cumbrian ones include Furness Fish & Game Supplies, Howbarrow Organic Farm, Peter Gott/Sillfield Farm, Low Sizergh Barn and Richard Woodall in Waberthwaite. This is taking local food sourcing to a completely new level. The producers themselves are pictured and quoted on the place mats, and there are huge photos of them up on the walls. This, in combination with the numerous log fires and friendly atmosphere made us very happy and comfortable before the meal had even begun.

The menu is, as I said, extensive, and in addition to the categories starters, mains and puddings, there are also nibbles, platters and six dishes from the grill. Plus salads, sandwiches and cheeses. There is also a great Young Person's Menu with equally carefully created dishes based on local ingredients. How often do you see starters and mains on a children's menu! And not a chicken nugget or baked beans in sight.

I had the cornfed breast of Goosnargh chicken, chunky chips, onion rings, watercress and fieldmushroom from the grill menu, with sinfully wonderful bearnaise sauce on the side. Martin had Farmer Sharps veal escallop, chargrilled with lemon, potato and celeriac cakes and buttered spinach, also from the grill menu. Unfortunately the execution doesn't quite make the most of the great ingredients; the veal could have been cooked less and the chicken was dry. The potato cake had a nice flavour but was a little greasy. We enjoyed the food though, and all in all, what the Highwayman lacks of in finesse in the kitchen, it more than makes up for in its menu, food sourcing and general enthusiasm, which makes you want to come back soon. It's certainly a serious cut above other pubs, without being in the gastro pub league.

Rating: total 20

Great atmosphere 4
Home cooked fresh food 5
Plenty of flavour 3
Good value for money 4
Service with a smile 4

admin

26 posts

Joined
6/13/2005

Re: Review of The Highwayman in Burrow by Cecilia Campbell
Posted: 06 Apr 08 9:52 AM Modified By admin on 4/6/2008 9:52:59 AM)

This was our first visit and Luke was with us. All the staff made us feel welcome, a high chair was offered immediately and we found a great corner to sit by one of the numerous wonderful open fires. The place is pretty big, with a number of interconnected "lounges" and a bar where diners can drink and eat. All the walls have excellent black and white photo's of the individual producers, inspiration for a photographer as well as a foodie.

We arrived at 12:30 and it got pretty full within half an hour. The menu has to be held up as a shining example of visible provenance. The front of the menu had the various choices the back had a map showing the location of the various suppliers. We will certainly visit the Highwayman again, given the extensive menu, and try a few more of the dishes.
As Cecilia said in her review, given the quality of the local produce on offer, if the kitchen gets it right then all the ingredients for a really satisfying and relaxing meal will be present. - Martin

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The Highwayman

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